Acon Says No

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Well here we go . . . I‘m not even really sure where to start with this one. When we returned from South America two Sundays ago and I was driving home from DIA with my wife in the passenger seat, I remember thinking, “this will likely be the wildest story with my name it that I will ever tell.” From a myriad of logistical problems getting to the mountain, to losing my only partner two days into our climb, to joining a Brazilian expedition and then a rescue operation at 20,000‘, to being mugged in the streets of Mendoza and spending five days in a third-world hospital, to sitting and having coffee with a two time K2 summiter and veteran Himalayan guide, this one certainly had enough to write a short book about. Keep reading…

Longs Peak: North Face from Chasm Lake

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A little sick of long drives to remote corners of Colorado, Ryan and I decided to continue our training on a mountain closer to Denver. Longs seemed perfect for the task. We decided on the North Face to mix up the climbing a bit and take another baby step towards Kieners (we‘re getting there). After a bit of research we discovered a gulley that starts at Chasm Lake and spits you out right at the base of the North Face; we thought it would make a great outing to link these routes together and descend the Keyhole, making for a full traverse of the mountain with Chasm Lake as the starting point. It turned out to be a great day, although very physically difficult. We departed from the TH at 6:00am on the dot, fully prepared for the -20 temps the weather service was calling for. We ascended above treeline as the sun was coming up, arriving at Chasm Junction roughly 2 hours after our departure. Continue reading…

Capitol Peak: A Bittersweet Start to November

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With Stu‘s permanent relocation to Ohio coming in May, he has made it a goal to finally finish off the 14ers before then. With Capitol being his largest remaining challenge, we figured it had to happen either now or in May. We chose now, although in hindsight I think I would have preferred spring snow to the verglass/unconsolidated sugar we faced. Stu, Ryan, and I left Boulder at 2am on Halloween night and headed for Aspen. Keep reading…

Pyramid to Thunder Pyramid Traverse

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After a long work week and a wedding next weekend, it was time to get a trip in. With all of the attention the Thunder Pyramid traverse has received recently, the decision was a no brainer. Ryan and I left Westminster at 1:45am, pulled into the Maroon Lake TH at 5:00am started off up the trail 15 minutes later. Keep reading…