2021 Elk Mountains Grand Traverse

Racers skinning across Richmond Hill, Sunday morning, March 28th. Photo by Jesse Levine.

Last Sunday morning Dylan Friday and I ripped off our skins and skied down to the base of Ajax Mountain, completing the Grand Traverse ski race from Crested Butte to Aspen two and a half years in the making. After being cancelled due to COVID only a couple weeks before race day last year, it was time for redemption for many racers this year and those who stuck with it were rewarded with one of the finest nights the event has seen in its 23-year history.

Dylan and I first signed up for this one in late-2019 and put together a pretty solid training regimen throughout the winter leading into March of 2020. After the race was cancelled we took the option of rolling over to 2021. Fast forward a year and we approached the race with cautious optimism the second time around. Though numerous races have gotten back onto their feet over the last 6 months, the Grand Traverse entails several aspects beyond COVID that need to fall into line to successfully pull off a race to Aspen.

Course map and elevation profile. Click to enlarge.

With a notoriously bad avalanche season, unsettled weather throughout March and elevated COVID numbers in Pitkin County, we were all fearing being relegated to the “Grand Reverse” course that heads up towards Star Pass and loops back around to Crested Butte. In the end though everyone’s patience was rewarded and things came together perfectly. Conditions settling down at the right time and a lot of dedicated race staff and volunteers went to work to make the route to Aspen happen.

Taking off from the starting line up Crested Butte Mountain at midnight.

The Grand Traverse is the most “time honored” ski mountaineering race in North America, first held in 1998. The course racks up ~40 miles and 7,800 ft of elevation gain and draws people from all over the country and beyond. In 2014 the race added summer trail run and mountain bike options, and athletes can now go after the “Triple Crown” by completing all three. Maybe a goal for someday, but the ski race definitely needed to come first for me.

The Nordic Inn next to the base of the mountain and Red Lady lift made for a perfect base of operations for the weekend. We arrived in town early enough for Dylan and I to lay out all of our gear while the girls went up for some turns at the resort. Then it was down to trying to catch some shuteye before the 12am start which we only marginally succeeded at. Anna-Lisa, Amelia, Mickey, Eli and Jax came back from the bars at 11:45 and helped us get our asses out the door. After swigging some coffee and making final preparations, we said goodbye to everyone at the start line and we were off.

As is custom, the start of each race is blessed by a local reverend. Here’s the 2014 rendition.

Despite being midnight the energy at the start of the race was palpable. Dylan shot right out of the gate and had to reign in his desire to pass every party in sight for the first several hours of the night. It was cold, windless and perfectly clear with a full moon reflecting off the snow, lighting the valley and route ahead of us. Conditions were firm and fast with all of the creek crossings bridged. Dylan and I discussed early on how the course record could very well be broken on this night. And indeed it was.

Racers heading for the pass with Star Peak in back. Photo taken by Jesse Levine about an hour after we were through this section.

We made our way up the East Valley, a long gradual sidehill traverse that seemingly never ended. Past the first checkpoint at Ambush Ranch we turned north up the Brush Creek drainage. From that point it’s a solid 8.5 miles over Death Pass and up the valley towards Star Pass and the Friends Hut. Having settled into an “all-night” pace by that point, we just played the game of continuing to move quickly enough to stay warm but not enough to sweat or tire ourselves out. Heads down, the occasional conversation helped stave off the 3am delirium, and before long we found ourselves switchbacking up Star Pass at mile 17.25.

Star Pass checkpoint. Descend off the east side of the pass and you’re basically committed to continue on to Aspen. The moon almost really felt that bright. Photo by Jesse Levine.

At the pass we transitioned and clicked in for the first time in a long time, then descended over a thousand feet down to the bonfire in Taylor Basin with its light acting as a sort of beacon visible from high above. Being pretty much the darkest, coldest part of the night it was tough for me to leave that fire but thankfully Dylan was right there to crack the whip. After downing some hot coffee and warming the skins for a few minutes we were off again, now officially closer to Aspen than CB.

Bonfire at the Brush Creek aid station.

The full “Worm Moon” setting from Richmond Hill. Photo by Jesse Levine.

From Taylor Pass the race takes on a different feel as it traverses north along Richmond Hill for many miles almost entirely above treeline. By now the sun had joined the party which brought a welcome breath of life. I did run into some issues with my primary skins adhering and had to switch to my secondary ones. Turns out the strong recommendation to pack multiple pairs was an apt one.

Good morning Elk Mountains.

Looking west towards Castle and Cathedral Peaks caked in white.

Someone had told us before that the “real race starts at Barnard” and I don’t think either of us ever really contemplated exactly what that meant. We pulled into the Barnard Hut aid station around 8am. Tired, feeling fairly miserable and realizing we still had 7 miles to go to reach the sundeck atop Aspen Mountain, suddenly it all became clear.

The race from that point on was essentially a total sufferfest in grinding out the final miles, physically and mentally, maybe more so than any race I’ve done before. Every time we came over a rise there was another one way off in the distance that we knew had to be next up. Without knowing exactly where the sundeck was we were inevitably looking expectantly around every corner, and it just took a long damn time to finally get there to put it bluntly. But eventually we did get there, ripped skins for the final time and enjoyed the 3,300 ft descent down to the finish line.

At the finish. We look better than we feel.

We ended up with a time of 11:47:00, which came out to 60th overall and 20th in our age bracket. Not bad for a pair of guys with an average underfoot ski width of 94.5 🙂 Full results can be found here.

Much more importantly however, crossing that finish line felt like the conclusion of an effort that was a long time coming. I think the wait just made the experience that much sweeter, which I’m guessing and hoping might be a common theme for people all year as we get back to completing races that were cancelled in 2020. It’s a good feeling.

A parting shot of the Star Pass prayer flags at sunrise. Photo by Jesse Levine.

Thanks again to all the people who made this race happen and congrats to all who were a part of it. It really is a special event. And thanks to Jesse Levine for the great race photos. More of his work can be found here.

Now it’s on to what looks to be a truncated spring ski season. Here’s hoping for a few good descents before it’s all over…