The “Peak Q” Sneak

Summit of “Peak Q” (13,230′), September 16th, 2020. Click to enlarge.

A few summers back Steve and I packed into Slate Lake intent on climbing Peaks Q and L, but a freak mid-September storm dropped several inches of snow on both peaks the night we arrived. Through sheer stubbornness we managed to eke out a summit of “Peak L” despite the snow, but packed out a day early leaving what would’ve been my Gore 13er finisher for another day. Well, a few weeks ago I finally headed back in there to finish the job.

A hazy morning at Pitkin Lake after the approach. 

Rather than another long pack-in to Slate from the Summit County side, and because I was going solo, I elected to approach Q as a daytrip from Pitkin Creek on the Vail side. More frequently used for skiing in general, it’s a long, at times tedious route with some routefinding to nail, but overall a slick alternative for getting into Upper-Slate Creek sans overnight pack.

Looking down at Pitkin Lake with haze from the West Coast fires filling the sky.

For anyone going for this route, the first real task of the day beyond getting to the lake is to find a weakness in the ridge between the two Partner peaks that allows for passage down into Lower-Slate Creek. One decent option is a small col pretty close to the sub-summit of West Partner, known to some as “Might Pass”.

Atop “Might Pass” looking north into Lower-Slate Creek. Not a very oft-visited drainage I don’t think.

From Lower-Slate, be careful not to head directly towards “Peak Q” too early. There’s a small bowl just south of the Q/R saddle that’s somewhat difficult to see when approaching from the south. If you mistake the ridge line south of the bowl for the Q/R ridge line, you’ll be in for a demoralizing surprise (as my buddy Scot learned the hard way when he went for this route).

At the Q/R saddle after finding a decent route through Lower-Slate. “Peak L” looking pretty impressive from here. Click to enlarge.

Once at the Q/R saddle I joined the standard route and despite a dusting of snow on the more northern aspects, it went down easily and I was staring at the summit block in no time.

The small chimney climb and knife edge leading to the summit is just ahead.

After a couple minor obstacles leading to the true summit, and after a 5-hour ascent from the Pitkin Trailhead, I stepped on top of “Peak Q”. It’s cool summit positioned right in the middle of the range and it definitely lived up to my expectations. It was nice to look out at the Gores from the point that I had looked at so many times before from all the other Gore summits.

Summit views looking north at the Ripsaw. Click to enlarge.

Looking south at “West Partner Peak”. That north couloir looks fun. Click to enlarge.

In pursuing the Colorado 13ers list (which I call “the list that never ends”), breaking up the overall effort with smaller sub-goals and accomplishments along the way is the only way to feel like you’re getting anywhere. Finishing off the Gore 13ers was another one of those elephant bites. It’s a small, but incredible set of 20 ranked peaks that in many ways stacks up as more difficult than other lists that are 3-5x as long. The Gores are just that much work but also that rewarding.

After a decent summit stay I reversed my entire route back through Lower-Slate and up Might Pass. Then on down to Pitkin Lake for a much-needed foot soak.

Time to head home, back across the snow dusted ledges on the peak’s north side. That’s R and S in back.

The Upper-Slate Creek drainage seen from Q’s summit ridge. What a view. Click to enlarge.

Looks like the locals are gearing up for winter…

First signs of the fall leaf change along the Pitkin Trail on the way out.

Stats for the day came out to 15.8 miles and 7,052 feet. Not too shabby for nabbing one of the Gore Range’s most interior peaks. Then it was off to my back porch for a 4 Noses Pump Action. It won’t be long now before that porch will be buried in 3 feet of snow. Ski season is in the air these days, but what kind of ski season will it be?

Thanks for reading.